Setting Up Your Tropical Fish Tank

Whether you’re a novice, or a seasoned hobbyist, you’re going to have to pay attention to the same items and requirements when setting up a tropical fish tank.

Aquarium -  The size of aquarium should be based on what type of fish you intend to buy, and how many.  Remember that the more space per fish, the more dilution there is of natural wastes and less stress on the occupants.  Deep tanks are generally harder to clean, and may be detrimental to plant life, if sufficient light can’t reach to the bottom.  For the new hobbyist, a 20-gallon tank provides lots of room to start with a reasonable selection of fish, with a little left over for additions later on.

Aquarium stand – A stand of adequate strength is a necessity, as opposed to putting the tank on a bookshelf. Tanks can be put on a bookshelf, but only if they are very small, with a proportionately small population of fish, and the bookshelf is relatively strong.  As a rule of thumb, one gallon of water weighs 8.34 lbs. Multiply that by your aquarium capacity, and you’ll see why you need a solid base for the tank.  If the stand you put it on is not level, or if it is weak and the surface becomes bent, that may cause structural stresses on the tank, which can develop leaks from seams that give way.

Canopy and lighting – Most aquariums either come with, or are compatible with canopies to fit the top snugly. These will usually have sections that pop out to accommodate your pump and heater.  Canopies help stop evaporation of water, which can cause the concentration of wastes to rise in the tank, and they also help maintain the water temperature, by keeping the air directly above it, at the same level.  A canopy will also keep small children from putting their hand in the water, and it keeps fish in the tank, from jumping out.

The lighting system in canopies comes in either incandescent or fluorescent. Incandescent burns hotter, uses more electricity, and the bulbs don’t usually last as long.  Fluorescent burns “cool”, adding no heat to the tank, and you can also get special tubes/bulbs that will promote plant growth, although you should be aware it can also promote algae growth.

Heater – The rule of thumb for buying heaters, is to have 5 watts per gallon. For a 20-gallon tank, you will need a 100watt heater.  Even in coldwater aquariums, a heater is advisable to compensate for fluctuations in the room and seasonal temperatures.  Heaters can be set at the average daytime temperature of the house, to keep the tank from dropping repeatedly at nights, when your room thermostats may be turned down.  You can purchase either a heater that fastens to the rim of your tank, with its temperature settings just above the water level, or you can buy the totally submersible heaters. These can be concealed by plants and ornaments, but then will have to be pulled up near the surface, to reach the settings on top, if it needs adjusting.

Filters  /  Pumps – These come in a variety of forms that can be installed in the tank, or hang on the exteriors. There are three types of filtration possible: mechanical, biological and chemical.  Mechanical filtration is a system by which impurities are removed by passing tank water through a media that captures particles.  Biological filtration other than the natural balance of bacterium, include man-made sponge or canister filters.  Chemical filtration systems pass tank water through a substance that changes some component of the water.  Some of the substances that result in specific changes, are: activated carbon, ammonia absorbing clays, and synthetic resins.

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